Designed by Shonan Purie Trehan, founder of Studio Language Architecture, this new restaurant in Mumbai comes with the warmth of an old Bandra home mixed with inimitable nods to Wes Anderson.
Close your eyes and picture yourself at the dinner table of a friend’s home in Bandra who’s also a genius chef. Now what if Wes Anderson had designed the home in the 1980s? Are you seeing a home with a cute, retro vibe? Lot of polished wood, pastel wall papers? Symmetrical styling and brilliantly placed artefacts maybe? Papa’s, a new restaurant in Mumbai from Hunger Inc Hospitality is all this and more.
Papa’s is perched over Veronica’s the sandwich shop in Bandra.
The bar at Papa’s.
Navigating the bustling lines at Veronica’s sandwich shop, ascending the stairs to the mezzanine level, and stepping into Papa’s feels like uncovering a hidden gem, akin to stumbling upon a speakeasy! Yash Bhanage, Founder & COO of Hunger Inc. Hospitality, elaborates, “We aimed to veer away from the stark, minimalist Scandinavian style often seen in upscale eateries. Our goal was to recreate the feeling of dining in a chef’s personal sanctuary—warm, intimate, and inviting—while offering cuisine akin to fine dining but without the formal atmosphere.”
Transforming the attic storage space of a bakery into an exquisite dining venue posed a unique challenge. To bring their vision to life, Bhanage and CEO Sameer Seth enlisted the expertise of Shonan Purie Trehan, founder of Studio Language Architecture. Trehan reflects, “The space’s intimacy and coziness were its strengths. However, its height and acoustics presented significant obstacles.” In addition to this Mumbai restaurant, Trehan has also contributed to designing other Hunger Inc. spaces.
The dining counter, bar top and the serve ware are repurposed from a wooden bar top at The Bombay Canteen.
A floral chandelier by architect and lighting designer Arjun Rathi frames the dining table.
With a commitment to retaining the space’s original charm, Trehan opted to preserve the original wooden trusses while revitalizing the roof to incorporate a central skylight. Fabric wallpapers were added to absorb the ambient noise from the lively sandwich shop below. Additionally, the ceiling was adorned with teal-colored absorptive material. Trehan elaborates, “Papa’s ambiance thrives on conversations at the bar, dining table, and interactions between the chef and guests, accompanied by vibrant music. It was crucial to create an environment that accommodates these elements while allowing the chatter from Veronica’s below to enhance the overall atmosphere.”
All In The Details
Papa’s is framed by peep in and peep out window shutters.
Named in honor of the late chef Floyd Cardoz, affectionately known as ‘papaji’, Papa’s is divided into two distinct areas. One side features a cocktail bar, ingeniously designed at a welcoming, homey height perfect for intimate conversations and crafted cocktails by Pankaj Balachandran, Co-founder of Countertop India. On the other side lies the dining room, centered around Executive Chef Hussain Shahzad’s culinary domain. Ensuring that the height of the 12-seater table matches the kitchen counter establishes a seamless connection between diners and the captivating culinary theater of dish plating in the kitchen.
Enclosed within a framework of wood and glass inspired by the front galleries of Bandra’s historic villas, Papa’s exudes a charming ambiance. “In traditional Bandra homes, people would gather by the windows with their tea, observing the street life. Passersby would also peek in, fostering interaction. The window frames and shutters at Papa’s echo this dynamic, facilitating a ‘peek in and peek out’ experience between Veronica’s and Papa’s,” explains Trehan.
A Slow Reveal
The dining room at Papa’s.
Papa’s initially appears as a cozy, familiar home in Bandra, but upon closer inspection, it unfolds into a multifaceted, dynamic space that captivates with its playful, intricate, and refined elements. With each glance, new layers reveal themselves—subtle textures adorning walls, geometric patterns embellishing countertops, and unique features like stone fidget spinners and hanging dry-aged ducks. The ambiance carries a whimsical yet sophisticated aura reminiscent of a scene from a Wes Anderson film, evident in the furniture’s graceful curves, the enchanting lighting, and the inviting warmth of the wood tones.
The space is adorned with personal touches and mementos, adding to its charm. A miniature representation of the late chef, donning a Giant’s tee, presides over the dining room, while cherished trophies from Bhanage’s father adorn the shelves. Architect and lighting designer Arjun Rathi’s hand-blown floral chandelier beautifully complements the teal-colored chairs, adding to the thoughtful arrangement of objects—neither overwhelming nor sparse.
Interestingly, elements such as the dining counter, bar top, and serving ware find new life after being repurposed from a wooden bar top at The Bombay Canteen. For those seeking the best vantage point, the ledge at the bar overlooking Veronica’s offers the ideal spot to savor a cocktail while observing the lively activity below.
Whether you find yourself in the dining room or the bar area, Papa’s promises an immersive journey of discovery—a hidden sanctuary brimming with warmth and hospitality, waiting to be explored.
Source: AD