When Karma Chime started Mountain Cafe & Roastery in Paro, in 2016, coffee shops were unheard of in the Himalayan kingdom.
An Indian might not think of a café as special, given the ubiquitousness of coffee shops in our country, but in Bhutan, it is rare. | Photo Credit: Getty Images/iStock
As I sit in the Mountain Cafe & Roastery in Paro, Bhutan, savoring a steaming cappuccino on a chilly December afternoon, I’m enveloped by the cozy ambiance reminiscent of a warm log cabin. While cafes may be commonplace in India, here in Bhutan, they’re a rarity. Karma Chime, the proprietor of Mountain Cafe, shares with me that his introduction to coffee didn’t occur until 2014, when he experienced it for the first time in a charming cafe in Utrecht, the Netherlands.
“I had no prior knowledge of coffee. It was only when my friend ordered a cappuccino that I followed suit,” he admits. The experience of enjoying coffee in a charming old house transformed into a coffee haven left a profound impression on him. “The preservation of a traditional home within a bustling city was truly captivating,” he reflects. This encounter inspired him to establish a café upon returning to his native land, Bhutan.
“The spacious two-storey café overlooking Paro’s busy market area has a youthful vibe with barrels used as tables and posters with quirky quotes. ”
In 2016, Chime launched Mountain Cafe, offering a menu of food and coffee crafted from imported beans. Situated in a spacious two-story building overlooking Paro’s bustling market area, the café exudes a youthful ambiance, featuring tables made from barrels and adorned with posters showcasing quirky quotes. Initially, customer feedback on the coffee was less than favorable, prompting Chime to realize the importance of sourcing quality beans and mastering the roasting process for success. His quest for knowledge led him to the coffee belt of Chikmagalur, Karnataka, where he immersed himself in learning the intricacies of coffee production, from cultivating the beans to brewing the perfect cup.
Mountain Cafe & Roastery in Paro, Bhutan. | Photo Credit: By Special Arrangement
After mastering the intricacies of coffee production, Chime harbored a desire to cultivate his own beans. However, coffee farming was unheard of in Bhutan during that period. Reflecting on the challenges ahead, he remarks, “There were numerous obstacles, and if I had dwelled on them, I might have abandoned the endeavor long ago.” Encouragement came from the Agriculture Minister of Bhutan, who informed him that the southern region of the Himalayan kingdom was conducive to coffee cultivation.
In the Samtse district, situated near the Indo-Bhutan border in southern Bhutan, Chime encountered a surprising sight: hundreds of small-scale farmers who had been cultivating coffee since 2003. Despite minimal local demand, these farmers persisted in coffee cultivation due to its relatively straightforward nature compared to crops like oranges. Inspired by their dedication, Chime purchased a two-acre plot of land in Samtse and simultaneously placed an order for an industrial coffee roasting machine.
Despite his efforts, customers remained uncertain about the type of coffee Chime was offering. However, undeterred by the challenge, Chime persisted. Determined to validate his product, he sent a sample for testing in Thailand, receiving promising results. With renewed motivation to forge ahead and broaden coffee cultivation beyond his initial two-acre plot, Chime distributed coffee saplings to 600 farmers in Samtse. Alongside providing them with assistance and encouragement, he aimed to expand the coffee-growing community.
Karma Chime. | Photo Credit: By Special Arrangement
A positive outcome of Chime’s venture was the emergence of significant employment opportunities in Samtse. Traditionally, the younger populace of the region sought higher-paying employment in urban areas. Chime envisions that as demand for coffee grows and coffee cultivation becomes financially rewarding, younger individuals will be incentivized to remain in their villages and engage in agricultural activities. Additionally, Chime operates a coffee processing facility in Samtse, providing employment opportunities for locals.
Currently, Chime oversees the operations of four cafes spread across Paro and Thimphu, employing a total of 55 individuals. Plans for a fifth outlet in Phuentsholing are underway. Initially selling 1,000 kg of coffee annually, Chime now moves 1,000 kg per month. The small-scale farmers he initially encountered during his exploration of Bhutan’s coffee-growing regions have united into a larger farmers’ collective. Chime remains committed to their development, offering them saplings, training, and ongoing support. His ultimate goal is to elevate Bhutan’s presence on the global coffee stage.
Source: Frontline
