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The restaurant brands we just can’t let go

We loved them once. Will we love them again? Nancy Kruse and Lisa Jennings talk about the wave of restaurant brand revivals attempting to make what’s old new again.
By Lisa Jennings and Nancy Kruse on Feb. 08, 2024

A rendering of the new-and-revived Steak & Ale, which was once the casual dining concept to define casual dining. |Rendering courtesy of Steak & Ale.

Lisa : Nancy, you might not be aware, but I have a fondness for all-you-can-eat buffets. Admittedly, I don’t consume much, so it’s not the best deal for me. However, I still cherish the memories of entering a Souplantation/Sweet Tomatoes, the buffet chain with dual names that tragically met its end during the pandemic.

Nancy, you might be surprised to learn this about me, but I’m quite a fan of all-you-can-eat buffets.

Granted, I don’t have the appetite to make the most of it, so financially, it’s not the best deal for me. Nonetheless, I still fondly remember the excitement of stepping into a Souplantation/Sweet Tomatoes, the buffet chain that unfortunately met its demise during the pandemic.

I particularly enjoyed the variety of options at the salad bar, the soups, the bread selection, and of course, the soft serve ice cream.

What I loved most about the soft serve wasn’t creating extravagant, sprinkle-covered concoctions like many other guests did. Instead, I enjoyed the simplicity of making a small serving, just enough to satisfy my craving. A little splurt, as I like to call it, perhaps with some sprinkles, and I was content.

Unfortunately, the 97-unit buffet chain, once owned by Garden Fresh Restaurants in San Diego, closed its doors in 2020 during the pandemic shutdown and never reopened. At the time, the thought of strangers congregating around the buffet, even with protective measures like sneeze guards, was unsettling for many.

Some industry experts even proclaimed the end of the buffet era.

However, it seems that the Sweet Tomatoes brand is making a comeback. In a few weeks, a Sweet Tomatoes will reopen in Tucson, Ariz., and we’ll once again experience the challenge of loading up our plates with more food than we can eat, even though we know we won’t finish it all.

In fact, Sweet Tomatoes is just one of several classic brands making a resurgence. It appears that there are many restaurant brands that refuse to fade into obscurity.

It seems that the prevailing thought is that if someone once loved a brand, perhaps another generation can learn to love it too, akin to the phenomenon depicted in the movie “Mean Girls.”

Nancy, what are your thoughts on these restaurant revivals? What does it say about us that we’re eager to revisit the past?

Nancy:

One of the things I appreciate about our discussions, Lisa, is that I always come away learning something new. In this instance, it’s twofold: first, your affinity for carefully portioned splurts, to which I can certainly relate. And second, the resurgence of the Sweet Tomatoes brand.

The return of Sweet Tomatoes brings me joy not just because of the splurting opportunities it presents, but also because the chain was known for its innovative menu offerings. I would be thrilled to see them back in action.

Your question about restaurant revivals is particularly pertinent in light of the resurgence of several legacy brands at a time when the restaurant scene is brimming with new concepts, albeit with an unusual emphasis on activities like pickleball or golf.

Reports indicate the comeback of classic casual dining establishments like Steak and Ale, established in 1966, as well as fast-food icons like Arthur Treacher’s Fish and Chips, which reached its peak in the late 1970s.

These retro concepts seem to align with other cultural shifts that suggest we’re becoming increasingly nostalgic. Consider the recent Wall Street Journal article titled “The Hottest New Bedtime for 20-somethings is 9 P.M.,” which highlights a trend among young adults to prioritize sleep over late-night socializing.

Similarly, restaurateur Danny Meyer has noted that 6 p.m. is the new 8 p.m. when it comes to securing a table at popular eateries, underscoring a shift in dining habits.

Moreover, there’s a growing interest among younger consumers in venerable brands. An article in The Takeout praised Olive Garden for its appeal to Gen Z diners, while Eater reported on the resurgence of “uncool” chains.

This trend is intriguing, though it’s unclear whether it signifies a desire to relive the past, especially considering that many Gen Zers are too young to have experienced these brands initially.

Do you see any other factors at play?

Lisa:

Your mention of making dinner reservations under the name Arthur Treacher brings back fond memories. It’s unfortunate that everything has moved online, removing some of the fun.

Indeed, the resurgence of these brands is a testament to the adage that what’s old is new again.

In California, for instance, a young entrepreneurial duo is revitalizing the Pioneer Chicken concept, a beloved fried chicken chain with roots in Los Angeles dating back to 1961. Val and Ernesto Aguirre, both under 25, bring a fresh perspective to the brand, leveraging their social media savvy to generate excitement.

Pioneer Chicken’s presence on platforms like Instagram and TikTok has garnered significant attention, aided by the brand’s iconic signage still visible in some areas. It’ll be intriguing to see if their marketing efforts translate into sales.

As Heather Haddon of the Wall Street Journal noted, fast food fans can be incredibly loyal, often displaying fervent enthusiasm for their favorite chains.

So, Nancy, do you think we’ll witness the resurrection of other iconic brands like Burger Chef, Chi-Chi’s, or Kenny Roger’s Roasters? There are undoubtedly superfans eagerly anticipating such a comeback.

Are there any brands you miss in particular?

Nancy:

Do I miss any chains in particular? Not really. Some brands are best left in the past, especially if they failed to meet customer expectations initially.

This leads us to the crucial question: What do contemporary consumers want? Regardless of a brand’s age or its target demographic, what are the essential elements for success in today’s competitive restaurant landscape?

A recent article in The Takeout outlined five key factors that contribute to the enduring appeal of Olive Garden, including table service, generous portions, reasonable prices, takeout options, and customization. These elements seem fundamental to satisfying customer needs.

Moreover, the influence of social media cannot be overstated. The article highlights how individuals film themselves indulging in various pasta combinations, generating millions of views online. While not always aesthetically pleasing, these videos contribute to the brand’s visibility and appeal.

Similarly, Eater suggests that consistency, value, a sociable atmosphere, and nostalgia drive the resurgence of “uncool” chains, providing comfort and familiarity in uncertain times.

It appears that in a post-pandemic world, consumers seek solace in familiar brands that excel at the basics. These revivals represent a form of nostalgia, offering reassurance amidst contemporary challenges.

As for brands attempting to appeal to a modern audience, adapting to the current landscape and leveraging social media effectively may pave the way for success. Whether they evoke memories of the past or cater to evolving preferences, these brands have the potential to thrive in today’s market.

In essence, we’ve come full circle, embracing the comforts of the past while navigating the complexities of the present. And as long as these brands understand the current climate and deliver on consumer expectations, they stand a chance at success.

Source – Restaurant Business

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